Wednesday, May 11, 2016

Gupteswar cave shrine in Koraput

Koraput in southern Orissa is blessed with natural resources, picturesque landscapes, lush green hills and a plethora of caves. One of these caves houses lord Gupteswar. Named after Lord Gupteswar, an incarnation of Lord Shiva, one can witness a gigantic Shiva Linga in the cave. People pay visit and worship the Linga, Lord Gupteswar. Since the Linga is in a secret place (secret means gupta in Odia language) the lord is called Gupteswar (Ishwar is God; the God at a secret place) which is believed to be growing in size over the years. Besides the Linga, there are other attractions in and around this limestone cave that lure visitors.

Lord Gupteswar in Koraput Photo: Suryanarayan Panda


Legend

As per mythology, Gupteswar was first discovered by Lord Rama when he was roaming in the Dandakaranya forest along with Sita and Lakshman during his fourteen year hermitage. But, if historical evidence is anything to go by, the place was discovered by a tribal hunter in the 19th century, after which the tribal people of the area started worshipping Lord Gupteswar.

Location

The way leading to Gupteswar
The Gupteshwar cave is situated about 55 km away from Jeypore, the nearby town in Koraput district, 12 km away from Ramgiri junction, 34 km from Boipariguda and 43 km from the Patraput Bridge. The cave is in the Ramgiri forest range.
Popularly known as ‘Gupta Kedar’, Gupteswar is a natural cave with stalagmites. The shrine is called ‘Gupteswar’, which means the ‘Hidden God’. One can reach the Linga by climbing the 200 steps. There are champak trees by the side of the steps. The entrance to the cave is about 3 metres wide and 2 metres high.

There are also several other caves nearby. Inside the second cave there is a large stalactite. People worship it as the udder of God Kamadhenu (the divine cow described in mythology) and wait under it with outstretched palms to catch drops of water that fall only at long intervals.

Tips for visitors

Carry a powerful torchlight with you. It is better if each member of your team carries torchlights. There are local kids who will show you the different formations inside the caves for a meager Rs 10. The Gupteswar cave is quite long and you need to hire an expert guide to explore it. You’d have to climb around 170 steps to reach the entrance to the cave.

How to reach

Entrance to the cave
There is no direct public transport available to reach Gupteswar. So, you have to hire vehicles from Jeypore. After travelling 12 km from Jeypore you will have to cross the Patraput Bridge. After crossing the bridge, you will reach a Y junction. The straight road from there will lead you to Gupteswar. Before reaching Gupteswar, there is a tradition of offering a branch of leaves in the local temple (the reigning deity of which is Goddess Dalkhae) for a safe journey. There is no night stay facility nearby. Only a tourist guesthouse of Orissa tourism located nearby but that too is not functioning for long.  

What the locals say:

Suryanarayan Panda

The place is located amidst thick Sal forests. Due to its traditional association with the Ramayana, the place has become a centre of pilgrimage in the neighbouring tracts of Orissa, Andhra Pradesh and Chhattisgarh. Although it does not have any archaeological relic the giant Shiva Linga rising to a height of six feet within a roughly circular chamber has become the main centre of attraction. The Linga is 10 feet in circumference. Another interesting sight is the cave from where water drops fall, which is popularly regarded as the udder of Kamadhenu.

Pritidhara Samal

As per legend, Lord Rama had worshipped the Linga in Gupteswar in the mythological age. But in the modern age a tribal man from the Durua caste first discovered the Linga and intimated the then King of Jeypore Maharaja Vikram Dev. The king arranged for worship. The Duruas first used to worship in the shrine. But a few years back Brahmins demanded the right to worship and a conflict erupted. A temporary solution was struck, but the tussle is still continuing. The road leading to Gupteswar is in a deplorable state. If the government takes necessary steps to improve facilities, Gupteswar can be an important tourist attraction in the state. The serene Sabari River flows nearby and the atmosphere is heart-touching. Also, deforestation has taken a heavy toll and no step has been taken to restore the scenic beauty of the place. There is no sophisticated eatery nearby, although there are small hotels that offer hygienic food to the visitors.

Nrusingha Behera

Koraput district is like Shimla. Unfortunately, many Oriyas do not know this. Gupteswar is a unique tourist destination. One can only feel the effect only after entering in to the cave. The giant Shiva Linga is the centerpiece of attraction. People suffering from incurable diseases come here to worship the God and stay back for months in the hope of getting cured. The caves apart, strolling by the riverside is also a great experience. The caves are more or less like the Bora caves in the Orissa-Andhra border.

Photos: Suryanarayan Panda

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