Gupteswar cave shrine in Koraput

Koraput in southern Orissa is blessed with natural resources, picturesque landscapes, lush green hills and a plethora of caves. One of these caves houses lord Gupteswar. Named after Lord Gupteswar, an incarnation of Lord Shiva, one can witness a gigantic Shiva Linga in the cave. People pay visit and worship the Linga, Lord Gupteswar. Since the Linga is in a secret place (secret means gupta in Odia language) the lord is called Gupteswar (Ishwar is God; the God at a secret place) which is believed to be growing in size over the years. Besides the Linga, there are other attractions in and around this limestone cave that lure visitors.

Lord Gupteswar in Koraput Photo: Suryanarayan Panda

Legend

As per mythology, Gupteswar was first discovered by Lord Rama when he was roaming in the Dandakaranya forest along with Sita and Lakshman during his fourteen year hermitage. But, if historical evidence is anything to go by, the place was discovered by a tribal hunter in the 19th century, after which the tribal people of the area started worshipping Lord Gupteswar.

Location

The way leading to Gupteswar

The Gupteshwar cave is situated about 55 km away from Jeypore, the nearby town in Koraput district, 12 km away from Ramgiri junction, 34 km from Boipariguda and 43 km from the Patraput Bridge. The cave is in the Ramgiri forest range.

Popularly known as ‘Gupta Kedar’, Gupteswar is a natural cave with stalagmites. The shrine is called ‘Gupteswar’, which means the ‘Hidden God’. One can reach the Linga by climbing the 200 steps. There are champak trees by the side of the steps. The entrance to the cave is about 3 metres wide and 2 metres high.

There are also several other caves nearby. Inside the second cave there is a large stalactite. People worship it as the udder of God Kamadhenu (the divine cow described in mythology) and wait under it with outstretched palms to catch drops of water that fall only at long intervals.

Tips for visitors

Carry a powerful torchlight with you. It is better if each member of your team carries torchlights. There are local kids who will show you the different formations inside the caves for a meager Rs 10. The Gupteswar cave is quite long and you need to hire an expert guide to explore it. You’d have to climb around 170 steps to reach the entrance to the cave.

How to reach

Entrance to the cave

There is no direct public transport available to reach Gupteswar. So, you have to hire vehicles from Jeypore. After travelling 12 km from Jeypore you will have to cross the Patraput Bridge. After crossing the bridge, you will reach a Y junction. The straight road from there will lead you to Gupteswar. Before reaching Gupteswar, there is a tradition of offering a branch of leaves in the local temple (the reigning deity of which is Goddess Dalkhae) for a safe journey. There is no night stay facility nearby. Only a tourist guesthouse of Orissa tourism located nearby but that too is not functioning for long.  

What the locals say:

Suryanarayan Panda

The place is located amidst thick Sal forests. Due to its traditional association with the Ramayana, the place has become a centre of pilgrimage in the neighbouring tracts of Orissa, Andhra Pradesh and Chhattisgarh. Although it does not have any archaeological relic the giant Shiva Linga rising to a height of six feet within a roughly circular chamber has become the main centre of attraction. The Linga is 10 feet in circumference. Another interesting sight is the cave from where water drops fall, which is popularly regarded as the udder of Kamadhenu.

Pritidhara Samal

As per legend, Lord Rama had worshipped the Linga in Gupteswar in the mythological age. But in the modern age a tribal man from the Durua caste first discovered the Linga and intimated the then King of Jeypore Maharaja Vikram Dev. The king arranged for worship. The Duruas first used to worship in the shrine. But a few years back Brahmins demanded the right to worship and a conflict erupted. A temporary solution was struck, but the tussle is still continuing. The road leading to Gupteswar is in a deplorable state. If the government takes necessary steps to improve facilities, Gupteswar can be an important tourist attraction in the state. The serene Sabari River flows nearby and the atmosphere is heart-touching. Also, deforestation has taken a heavy toll and no step has been taken to restore the scenic beauty of the place. There is no sophisticated eatery nearby, although there are small hotels that offer hygienic food to the visitors.

Nrusingha Behera

Koraput district is like Shimla. Unfortunately, many Oriyas do not know this. Gupteswar is a unique tourist destination. One can only feel the effect only after entering in to the cave. The giant Shiva Linga is the centerpiece of attraction. People suffering from incurable diseases come here to worship the God and stay back for months in the hope of getting cured. The caves apart, strolling by the riverside is also a great experience. The caves are more or less like the Bora caves in the Orissa-Andhra border.

Photos: Suryanarayan Panda

Jaykara Sherawali da – Bol sache darwar ki jay

Baishno Devi Maa

Devotees of Baishno Mata must have heard the slogan ‘Jaykara Sherawali da’ in ‘jagaratas’, to which every one present there answer together, ‘Bol sache darwar ki jay’ in loud and clear voice. It is a popular slogan and known to most of the devotees. In case anybody stranger to it, here is the explanation.

Jaykara means praising someone for His/Her good deed in loud voice. In this contest the ‘jaykara’ is meant for Durga Maa, who use to sit on a lion (lion is called sher in Hindi and Sherawali means the lady, who is the mistress of lion). The word ‘da’ in punjabi means ‘ka’ in Hindi which means ‘of’ in English. The slogan is heard in Baishno Devi, the abode of Baishno Mata. And since this place is dominated by Punjabi population, the words related to the Goddess are also in their language. When someone asks the other devotees to praise the mother Goddess with ‘jaykara Sherawali da’, then others should shout ‘bol sache darwar ki jay’ raising their two hands. Raising the hands symbolizes surrender. If we will surrender ourselves completely to the God with raising hands then only She/He will take care of us. Recall, till the moment Draupadi was trying to save her covering her hands the God did not came. But once she left everything on God and prayed Lord Krishna with raising hands, at once the lord tood incarnation as sarees and the strong couldn't pull her saree with his best effort.

Now come to what ‘Bol Sache Darwar Ki jay’ means. Darwar is the court of the king where every subject gets justice. Goddess Durga or Baishno Devi, who is the mistress and ruler of the universe also provides justice in Her ‘darwar’ or court. And the worldly court of justice may punish an innocent and leave a wrongdoer, but the Goddesses’ court is always true. It always offers the deserving prize or punishment. Hence devotees love to prasie about the greatness of the mother Goddess uttering ‘Bol Sache Darwar Ki Jay’ in loud voice. I have heard, Goddess Baishno Devi loves to hear the slogan from Her devotees and in return blesses them. 

Shree Hanuman Chalisha

Hanuman ji in Bhatli, Bargarh, Odisha

Shree Guru Charan Saroj Raj, Nija Manu Mukur Sudhaari

Baranau Raghubar Bimal Jasu, Jo Daayaku Phala Chaari

Buddhi Heen Tanu Jaanike, Sumiraun Pavana Kumaar

Bal Buddhi Bidya Dehu Mohi, Harahu Kalesh Bikaar

Jai Hanumaan Gyana Guna Saagar, Jai Kapisa Tihun Loka Ujaagar

Raam Doota Atulita Bala Dhaamaa, Anjani Putra Pavansuta Naamaa

Mahabeer Bikrama Bajrangi, Kumati Nivaar Sumati Ke Sangi

Kanchan Baran Biraaj Subesaa, Kaanan Kundal Kunchit Kesaa

Haath Bajra Aur Dhvajaa Biraajai, Kaandhe Moonj Janeu Saajai

Shankar Suvan Kesari Nandan, Tej Prataap Mahaa Jag Bandan

Vidyaavaan Guni Ati Chaatur, Raam Kaaj Karibe Ko Aatur

Prabhu Charitra Sunibe Ko Rasiyaa, Raam Lakhan Sitaa Man Basiyaa

Sukshma Roop Dhari Siyahin Dikhaavaa, Bikata Roop Dhari Lanka Jaraavaa

Bhima Roop Dhari Asura Sanhaare, Raamchandra Ke Kaaj Savaare

Laaya Sajivan Lakhana Jiyaaye, Shree Raghuvir Harshi Ura Laaye

Raghupati Kinhi Bahuta Baraai, Tuma Mama Priya Bharatahi Sama Bhai

Sahasa Badan Tumharo Jasa Gaavein, Asa Kahi Shripati Kanth Lagaavein

Sankaadika Brahmaadi Munisaa, Naarad Saarad Sahit Ahisaa

Jama Kubera Digpaal Jahaan Te, Kabi Kobida Kahin Sake Kanhaa Te

Tum Upakaar Sughrivahi Keenhaa, Raam Milai Raaja Pada Deenha

Tumharo Mantra Bibhishan Maanaa, Lankeshvara Bhaye Saba Jaga Jaanaa

Jug Sahastra Jojana Para Bhaanu, Leelyo Taahi Madhura Phala Jaanu

Prabhu  Mudrikaa  Meli  Mukha  Maaheen, Jaladhi Laanghi Gaye Acharaja Naaheen

Durgam Kaaj Jagat Ke Jete, Sugam Anugraha Tumhare Te Te

Raam Duwaare Tuma Rakhavaare, Hota Na Aagyaa Binu Paisaare

Sab Sukh Lahen Tumhaari Sharnaa, Tum Rakchak Kaahu Ko Dara Naa

Aapana Tej Samhaaro Aapei, Tino Loka Haank Te Kaanpai

Bhoot Pisaach Nikat Nahi Aavei, Mahaabira Jab Naam Sunaavei

Naasei Rog Hare Sab Peeraa, Japat Nirantara Hanumata Beeraa

Sankat Te Hanumaana Churaavei, Mana Kram Bachan Dhyaan Jo Laavei

Sab Par Raam Tapsvee Raaja, Tina Ke Kaaj Sakal Tum Saajaa

Aur Manorath Jo Koi Laave, Soi Amita Jivan Phal Paave

Chaaro Jug Partaap Tumhaaraa, Hai Parsiddha Jagat Ujiyaaraa

Saadhu Sant Ke Tum Rakhavaare, Asura Nikandan Raam Dulaare

Ashta Siddhi Nau Nidhi Ke Daataa, Asa Bar Dina Jaanki Maataa

Raam Rasaayan Tumhare Paasaa, Sadaa Raho Raghupati Ke Daasaa

Tumhare Bhajan Raam Ko Paavei, Janam Janam Ke Dukh Bisaraavei

Anta Kaal Raghubar Pura Jaie, Jahaan Janma Hari Bhakta Kahaai

Aur Devataa Chitt Na Dharai, Hanumat Sei Sarva Sukh Karai

Sankata Kate Mitey Saba Peeraa, Jo Sumirei Hanumat Balabiraa

Jai Jai Jai Hanumaan Gosaain, Kripa Karahu Guru Deva Ki Nain

Jo Sata Baar Paath Kar Koi, Chutai Bandi Mahaa Sukh Hoi

Jo Yah Padhe Hanumaan Chalisaa, Hoya Siddhi Saakhi Gourisaa

Tulsidaas Sadaa Hari Cheraa, Keejai Naath Hriday Mah Deraa

Pavana Tanay Sankat Haran, Mangal Murti Roop

Raam Lakhan Sita Sahit, Hridaya Basahu Sura Bhup

How much we should earn?

Human wants are unlimited. The moment one desire is fulfilled, another desire crops up. And to satisfy most of the needs you need money. Accordingly, everyone want to become more and more rich. The person who does not have his own house wants to buy one. Once he owns a house, he then wants either a second house or a bigger house and the process goes on. There is nothing bad about it. To live a good life people want money and if they want to earn more there is nothing wrong in it. Yet, unfortunately everybody want to become rich, but only some of them acquire their target.

While some people become rich with lesser effort, some other do not get rich despite their best effort. Being rich is good. Also, if you could not get richer despite your best effort and you are okay with the failure, then it is also good. Thing is bad when you live your whole life with the regret that you couldn’t earn enough despite your best effort.

Satisfaction in life has nothing to do with one’s owned amount of property. A poor fellow can feel satisfied with his small income while a rich man may live with utmost sorrow for not having property equivalent to some Mr. X and vice versa.

I knew a doctor in Kolkata who owned a seven storied building. Once I had visited his place and found construction work was in progress in his house. They were making another storey. I asked him why they need another storey while there is enough room to accommodate his family members lavishly. His wife replied, as the house owner in front of their house constructed an extra storey in his house, we needed to extend ours to show that we are richer than him. So should we live life only either to earn more and more money or feeling sorrow about not having more money? How much we should earn? What is the upper cap?

The answer lies in this line. ‘Swami hume itna dena, ki mein bhukha naa rahun, aur sadhu bhi bhuka na jae’. It means we should earn that much property, with which we can live a good life with sufficient food to it and also we can feed saints. Saints are not expected to earn at their own. These great people, who have abandoned society should be fed by social people. In return they will bless us to have more wealth and comfort.

Loving God like mother/ father

Photo: Jai Mata Di Baishnav Trust, Sambalpur courtesy: Facebook

We should love God like our father or mother. Seems unrealistic? Okay. I am explaining. People say in Hinduism, it is confusing to choose a God to worship because there are 33 crore Gods. Never mind, you can worship any God. You have a broader choice. I am simplifying. If you choose Lord Shiva, Vishnu, Ganesh or any other male God, I suggest you should worship Him as your father. On the other hand, if you love to worship any of the mother Goddesses like Durga, Laxmi, and Saraswati then worship and love them like your mother. Of course, writing male God or female God is not completely flawless, because Gods are beyond genders. 

When we see the God in ‘Saa-kaar’ form, all these names come. But, if we worship the supreme power in the ‘Nirakara’ form, like the Mahima Dharma believes, then the God doesn't have a shape. Thus, if He/She doesn't have a shape then how come it can be decided that whether the God is male or female? But, everything have been simplified and we have been provided with Gods with not only a proper shape but every God has different look and we can see them in their idol form in temples.

You may be a very rich person. But when your little son shares just half of his chocolate with you, you feel it precious. Akin to that, although God has provided us everything, a small offering from us makes Him/ Her very happy. And the God waits for it. Many people worship God regularly at their home with ‘pancha upachara’ rites that includes dhupa, deepa and naibedya. Normally people offer a small amount of food stuff to the God daily as offering called prasad. So, we can think, the God, who runs the huge world; will He wait for a piece of banana from me? Of course yes, if you love God like your father or mother. The creator of the universe will wait for your small offering. But if you have pride, it will not be accepted, even if your offering is very costly. There are many examples in mythology to support this above statement.

“Shabari Ke Ber, Sudama Ke tandul, prema sahit tum khao rasia, ruchi ruchi bhog lagao rasia, Shyam rasia mohe man basia, ruchi ruchi….”.

“Duryodhan Ke mewa tyage, bhukh lagi toh phir uth kar bhage…Saag Bidur ghar khayo rasia, ruchi ruchi bhog lagao rasia…’.

This is the song people often sing during worship when offering food stuff to Lord Krishna. In the Tretaya yug, when the lord took incarnation as Sri Ram, God even accepted pickings (jutha) berries from shabari. And in Dwapara Yuga, although he was the King, He waited for a small amount of dry rice fry from Sudama, His childhood friend. Duryodhan, offered the God mewa, a rich men’s food. But the God rejected it, since Duryodhan’s offer was with pride. Lord Krishna avoided him and went to Bidur’s house to have greens (saag).

In Oriya too, the Bidura episode have been narrated in a famous devotional song “Bhakata Bidura Saaga Bhaja Dei Tosai Parila Mana”. It means the devotee Bidura could please you only with a small amount of greens.

Once you start loving God like your father or mother, at time of needs you will get their blessings and you will be out of danger. 

Jay Mata Di….

Lord Jagannath Temple, Puri, Odisha, India

Lord Jagannath temple (Sri Mandir) at Puri, Odisha, India Photo: Himanshu Guru (blogger)

How to get an undisturbed darshan of Lord Jagannath in His temple in Puri

Jai Jagannath!

Lord Jagannath is known to everybody across the globe. His world famous Rath Yatra (Car festival or Chariot festival) attracts laksh of devotees to Puri. Besides, everyone wants to have a darshan of the trinity (Lord Jagannath, Balabhadra and Mata Subhadra) in the Shree Mandir, the abode of the Lord in Puri of Odisha. However, sometimes we come across complains saying the devotees did not managed to get a satisfactory darshan. It is true that Lord Jagannath is the living God and one can get a glimpse of Him only with His wish. So nothing to worry. Even if you can’t have a darshan, it doesn’t means that you are not getting His blessings. But I understand, anyone comes with a wish to visit the Lord on the Ratna Singhasana gets satisfied only when he gets a glimpse of the God. Accordingly, here are something I would like to convey so that next time your chance of having a darshan of the Lord in the temple becomes more probable.

The moment you stepped on to the soil of Puri think of the God and leave everything on Him. Pray Him about your wish of paying a visit to Him. Now, you reached near the temple. Pay your homage to the ‘Patitapabana bana’, the flag on the top of the temple. Now some Pandas may ask you to assist in the darshan.

If you want to meet the Chief Minister of Prime Minister, can you surely get a chance to meet them, once you go either to Navin Niwas in Bhubaneswar or PMO in Delhi? Of course not. Because, they are high profile people with hundreds of works to execute, as they head a state or the country. Now, think, if there is no surety of meeting a person who either runs a state or a country, can you surely meet the God who is running the world? After all Jagannath is Jagat nath, the master of the universe. But yes, once the PM or CM wants you to meet him, probably there would not be any problem. Like this, if the Lord wants, you must get a chance to have His darshan.

When you reached the Singhadwara, the entrance of the temple, some Pandas may ask you to assist for a darshan. It is upto you whether to take their service or not. I have heard of a mythological rule that the amount we spend for the God, when visiting to a temple, we should pay 10 percent of it to the priest. I have also heard the priest who actually conducts the worship for us gets 10 percent of the virtues that we get from the God of having His darshan. If we believe this rule, there is nothing wrong if a Panda (priest) assists you in the darshan and gets satisfied on getting a moneytary amount which is 10 percent of the amount you want to spend in the temple. So, in that case you should opt for him, but if he demands more than that it is ingenuine and you should avoid him. Well, I have heard of some cases when they used hard words. I understand that hurts. But my suggestion is not to argue or fight with him. Simply say him ‘Jay Jagannath’ and surrender his rebuke to the God. Just tell the God that you had to bear hard words and it is His turn to do whatever He feels good. I know, it is tough to bear, but accept it as a distraction. May be it is a test by the God. Your main aim is the Lord and His darshan. So all the time you should try to visualise Him, rather than getting yourself involved in any fight. Well, socially you may be a powerful man and could teach a lesson to him, but at this place just surrender it to the God. Accept that you may be powerful but the God is the supreme power. I know it is easy to advice, but practically hard to follow, but this is the best way out there.

Well, suppose you don’t want to pay anything to any body in the temple and just want to pay a visit to the Lord at your own. In this case first wash your hand and feet at the washing point in front of the entrance and proceed towards the Singhadwara. After you enter ‘Baisi Pabachha’ (22 steps) is there. There is a belief. In the first step there is a black rectangular stone. Step on it. It is believed that once you step on it, the stone takes away your vices. But during the return journey don’t step on it and walk along its side. Otherwise the vices you left earlier will again return to you. It is a belief. It is upto you to whether abide it or not. So, now, walk on the 22 steps and then take a right turn into the ‘Ananda Bazara’ where the God’s offerrings are available. Normally, you should go straight after the 22 steps to reach the temple throught the left path. But since you decided not to take assistance of any Panda, so I said to enter the Ananda Bazara. Because after going straight, you would find a number of Pandas who would ask you to assist.

In the Ananada Bazara ask somebody whether the main temple is open at the moment. If that is open you enter the ‘Kurma Bedha’, the inner premises of the temple, through the Ananda Bazara and go inside the main temple through the right side entrance to reach near the Garuda Stambha. There you can get clear glimpse of the trinity. Pay your homage and go ahead. If it is a ‘Sahanamela’ time you can go up to the inner sanctum. At other times, you will be checked at the entrance of the Garbha gruha. However, from this place too you can get a clear glimpse of the three idols. In normal time, employ one of your group members to buy the ‘Paramanika’ ticket on lieu of which you can get entry to the inner sanctum.

In case, you enquired at the Ananda Bazara and got the information that the main temple is not open for now, first have a full belly anna bhoga. I have heard, the anna bhoga and Lord Jagannath are same. I mean swallowing of the anna bhoga itself is like having darshan of Lord Jagannath. So have the food with satisfaction and then pay your visit to the Lord. You might be thinking, we should visit the Lord in empty stomach. But don’t worry. It is His offerring only, so there is no harm.

Jay Jagannath.